It shows a missing symbol, and you can replace the media via a right-click (or control-click) on the layer. * When a reference layer file cannot be found, the program now keeps the layer instead of removing it. * Hardware acceleration for jpeg video assist images–on macOS Apple Silicon machines and Windows with Intel graphics. * Audio track reading HUD in animation workspace can be popped out into separate window. This allows you to play back composited layers as you shoot a take. ![]() * Option to add an exposure as a reference layer. * Improvements for blocking/rehearsal animation: step by tag and auto-tag first frame in multi-shoot. You can use this to mark frames for some post-production reason, or as a way to quickly show/hide sets of frames. (In the X-Sheet, add a ‘TAG’ column to see tags.) The tags move with the frames as you edit. Right-click on the timeline (or control-click on macOS) and apply a tag from the contextual menu. * Frame Tags: Add colored tags to captured frames in the timeline or x-sheet. Add a group via the Arc hamburger menu, then drag channels into it. * Axis groups: organize your motion control axes into groups. Now, you're ready to start shooting your animation and launch Dragonframe Stop Motion.Dragonframe 5.2.0* Added Leica SL / SL2 / SL2-s support. This will save you immense time and energy trying to line up your drawings.ģ. In this case, I have set up a ruler and a block of wood to create a corner all sheets that I place here will register the same now since there will be a corner for them all to sit in. The point of having hole punched paper is to use as a registration system, which is a method of keeping all your drawings in the exact same position as when you drew them. Normally, you would ideally want to be using an animation punch and a peg bar but one of those animation hole punch machines costs an astronomical amount of money so there are workarounds. Once you have your space setup the way you like, you'll additionally need to create a system for you to register your animation. Mount your DSLR camera to the downshooter, plug in the AC Adapter to an outlet and insert the USB cable into your computer.Ģ. Setup your lights in a way that will evenly light your animation (traditionally 1 light on the left and 1 light on the right). This could be replaced with a tripod but that setup will be a bit tricky and you'll want a tripod that i capable of pointing your camera straight down at a 90 degree angle.ġ. This will be a bit of an investment but it will make life quite a bit easier if you animate a lot.Extension Cord: This may be unnecessary but you'll need at least 3 different outlet ports for the 2 lights & AC adapter so this may be worth having on hand. ![]() When dismounting the camera later from the downshooter, you may also run the risk of having the camera be in a slightly different location than you had it before. This may seem unnecessary but it will interrupt the workflow if you need to dismount the camera to replace batteries. AC Adapter for DSLR: This is a battery for the DSLR that is compatible with plugging into an outlet so you'll be able to animate for as long as you need without changing the battery.USB Cable: You'll need a cable that can connect to your DSLR to your laptop/computer.You'll want a minimum of 2 lights just for ever coverage. 2 Light Stands & 2 Lights: This combination can replaced by table lamps - IKEA has a couple of reasonably priced ones that may be a cheaper option than having light stands. ![]() ![]()
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